Path Is Too Complex Photoshop 3d
Rendering Flames in Photoshop
I just upgraded to CC, and I haven't really done any 3D modeling before so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I made three fairly small objects: a table, a glass, and a beer bottle, as well as an image used as a postcard object background. None of these shapes seem particularly complex, so I'm wondering why it has to render for 24+ hours. Once you have completed a section you must click on the first point you made to make the path 'whole'. When you do so you are left with a single line outlining the path area. We now need to select this area and remove it from the image. Right click inside the path area and click 'make a selection' (fig. Create an Work Path from Photoshop Shapes. As you probably know in Photoshop there are 6 Shape Tool that allows you to add vector shapes in Photoshop. We have the Rectangle Tool, the Rounded Rectangle Tool, the Ellipse Tool, the Polygon Tool, the Line Tool and the Custom Shape Tool. This can be done in Photoshop too. Obviously not every 3D project will involve animation. Rendering: This is where the computer builds the final high quality image frames and adds reflections etc. This is a time consuming task, so I suggest doing long renders at the end of the day or overnight. 3D in Photoshop. Ok, let’s get started. In Photoshop, add a layer mask to exclude the cup, masking out the inside. I used the pen tool to create the mask. Next, duplicate the layer, invert the mask on the duplicate, and reduce the opacity of that layer to 45%. Then export as PNG 24, with transparency.
Adobe released an update yesterday to all of its creative software. These updates added extra features to programs such as Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. One of the new features that I am excited about is the new flame rendering capabilities inside a Photoshop. Now, you have the ability to render flames along paths in your documents. I’ll walk you through the process of rendering flames in Photoshop with this new filter.
Something you should know
Before we get started, it’s important that you know that this filter works along paths that you have generated. Whether you draw a path with your Pen Tool, or you convert type to paths, they are needed in order for this filter to run.
Another thing that you’ll want to note is that this filter does not work with Smart Filters. If you convert your layer to a Smart Object, this filter will not work. It will be grayed out. This means that you can’t go back and edit this filter later. You need to make all of the adjustments correctly the first time.
Step 1
I am starting out by creating a document at 700 pixels wide by 500 pixels tall. I am filling the background layer with black. We will start out using the Pen Tool to draw a basic path. You can also use shapes, just make sure to change the options in the drop-down menu at the top from shape to path. I created a circle in the center of the document.
Step 2
Create a new blank layer above the background layer. Make sure the path is still selected. This will be our flame layer.
Step 3
Go to Filter> Render> Flame. A dialog box will open up, giving you many different options to choose from.
Making sure that I am working from the default preset, I will show you how to make adjustments to the flames that you can generate using this filter. The first option is the type of flame that you will be making.
One flame along path
This option takes one instance of a flame in stretches it over the length of your path. It follows the contour of your path.
Multiple flames along path
This places multiple instances of flames along the path that you make. These flames will overlap each other, and in our circle will create a ring of fire.
Multiple flames one direction
This will generate multiple instances of a flame, and give them an appearance of learning in one direction, as if you are looking at an object burning in front of you. All of the flames will be burning upwards.
Multiple flames path directed
This will give your flames the appearance of burning outwards from your path. In our circle, it looks like the flames are bursting forth from the circle.
Multiple flames various angle
This will place multiple instances of flames along the path, which will be angled at different directions. This is to make the flames look less uniform.
Candle light
This is supposed to simulate the single flame flicker from a burning candle. In our circle, it follows along the path.
Settings there are many different settings that will adjust how your flame looks and behaves. Let’s take a look at these settings and how they control the look of your flames.
Length
The length of your flames is determined by the first slider. If you don’t want to have uniform flames, which doesn’t look very natural anyway, you can click the option to randomize the length.
Width
The width of your flames determines how thick they are. Thicker flames will look more dense and more widespread.
Angle
The angle option is for the fifth option, which has flames at different angles. This setting will allow you to adjust the variation of the angles of your flames.
Interval
If you have several flames next to each other, you can increase the interval value to spread them out. The larger the value for their interval, the farther they will be spread apart.
Flame Lines
Flame Lines determines the complexity of the flames. The more complex your flames are, the more flickers, waves and variations they will have.
Photoshop Simplify Path
Turbulent
As you can imagine, the turbulent value makes your flames look wavier. This would be the effect if there was a lot of wind to go with the flames, and it also gives your flames more variation.
Jag
The jag value makes your flames look more jagged and square. Not so realistic, this option make produce some interesting results for text effects.
Opacity
Flames are naturally opaque or transparent. The higher you set this value, the brighter and more dense your flames will become. A good value for this setting is 15-25 for a more natural look. You can see in the example above the right image is blown out, because the opacity value is way too high.
Flame Bottom Alignment
If your flames are sitting along a path and not following it, you can use this value to make sure the flames aren’t uniform in where they sit. Being less aligned will look more natural, as flames don’t sit in a straight line.
Flame Style
There are 3 flame styles. Normal is the expected flame style, which is a basic flame. Violent is a more harsh flame, with a brighter appearance. Flat is just as it suggests, where it is devoid of depth or dimension.
Flame Shapes
The flame shapes that are available control which way the flames angle. Parallel means that the flames go straight up. To the center means they go inward. Spread means that they spread outward from the center. Oval means the go out from the bottom and come back in. Pointing means that they converge in one place.
You can also use custom colors for flames, so you make them any color you want. If you need hot blue flames, you can make them easily with this filter. You can also adjust the quality, too, for rendering purposes.
Using What We Know
So let’s make something with this. In the example above, I created a circle, using the shape tool. Then, I used the flame render filter on a separate layer to create the right of fire. Use multiple Flames along the path as your choice. I would suggest that you play with the turbulence values until your ring of fire looks how you want.
Flaming Text
Now comes the fun. the typeface I chose is Ostrich Sans, and the key here is to really spread the letters apart. I set the tracking to 140. This gives our flames plenty of room to take shape. With the text layer selected, right-click on the text layer in the Layers Panel and choose Create Work Path. The path will be active. Now, you’ll click the New Layer icon in the layers Panel. Then, go to Filter> Render> Flame.
Since the text is taller, it’s a good idea to set the length to a higher value than the width. The text is thin, so set the angle and interval to their lowest values, which are 0 and 10. We want to show a lot of detail and variation in our flames, so set complexity as high as it will go. Add some turbulence and jag to taste, depending on the resolution of your image. Turbulence adds a little waviness to the next. too much will make the text hard to read.
Below is the end result of our flame filter.
This is just one of the great new features in Photoshop. Having the ability to render custom flames will add a new dimension to your work. Rendering flames won be so difficult anymore. You won’t need a library of brushes anymore. This tutorial is just the tip of the iceberg. I’m sure there are all types of other effects we’ll be able to create, combining filters, blend modes and more.
Did you have any trouble realistically rendering flames in Photoshop? If you have any questions about rendering flames in Photoshop, or you want to share what you created, post it in the comments section below.
Achieving an outstanding quality in FDM 3D printing is not as easy as one could expect. A lot depends not only on the 3D model you’re trying to manufacture, but also from various settings and environmental factors related to the machine itself, its properties and technical condition.
We gathered a set of tips and pieces of advice based on our experience with 3D printing in general and using ZMorph multitool 3D printer in particular. We hope they’ll help you in achieving the best possible quality of your prints.
Take Good Care of Your Filaments
This first one may sound like a no-brainer, but a lot of people forget about taking proper care of their filaments, which can influence the entire 3D printing process. It’s very important to make sure that the filament is properly wound onto the spool. Knots and breaks on the thread may block the flow of the filament into the extruder or clog it causing, even more, damage.
Whenever you store larger quantities of filaments, remember to provide a suitable storage space. It should be free of excessive humidity or else your materials could go stale and lose some of their properties, like durability. Using airtight containers or plastic IKEA boxes with moisture absorbers inside for storage could be a good idea here.
Some people consider it being an urban legend, but many professional users recommend adding filament filters to clean and oil the materials. Sponge in the filter clears the dust from the material while at the same time lubricates the filament with canola or standard mineral oil (in fact, some filaments already have it in them). This seasons the extruder and the nozzle in order to keep them both in peak condition.
Choose the Right Temperature
Quality in FDM 3D printing often depends on the temperature set for extruding or on the heated platform. Every material has a recommended extrusion temperature, for example, ABS melts best around 240 degrees Celsius while PLA at about 200 degrees Celsius. These vary depending on the manufacturer, so it’s always wise to check the exact recommendations on the packaging.
Our experience shows that there’s a safe margin of about 10 degrees Celsius for lowering and raising the temperature of the extruded filament. Bigger change can greatly influence and lower the quality in FDM 3D printing. Too low temperature can cause layers to unstick or even make the filament impossible to extrude, while too hot materials tend to spill, bend and wrinkle.
It’s also important to remember to set the right temperature for a heated platform, so our 3D prints stick to it. ABS requires 100 degrees Celsius while PLA only 60 degrees Celsius. It’s even possible to print PLA without heating the table but we don’t recommend it. Check out more differences between PLA and ABS.
3D Print with Support Structures
You should always remember to use rafts and support structures for 3D printing, especially for more complex and highly detailed objects. The key to success here is setting the right thickness of the raft, the distance between the object and the support, and its density. More dense support is more reliable but harder to remove afterward.
Winpopup gold crack. The quality of the support also depends on the 3D printing software you’re using – different apps can generate better or less adjoining structures which often have a big impact on the overall quality of the final print.
When you print with ABS filaments, then the same ABS serves best for printing the supports too. For PLA we recommend PVA supports but this also requires using a two-material extruder like ZMorph Dual Extruder.
Edit the Infill Ratio of Your Prints
Maybe this one is more connected with durability than quality in FDM 3D printing but still important. Infill ratio describes the percentage of plastic filling the inside of your 3D print, under the outer layer. Low infill saves the material and speeds up the printing process but makes the entire object less durable and resistant, so it can break more easily. This applies especially to bigger objects, which can even implode under its own weight if there’s not enough filament holding the outer layers from the inside.
The final setting of the infill ratio often depends on the experience of a person preparing the files for printing. Lowering it under 10% is a certain failure while setting it up over 60% usually has no significant impact on durability, besides increasing the weight of the object. Everything in between is a safe space for your experimentation.
Another thing to remember is that there are various types of infill structures to choose from. Rectangular is the most common one and quite durable, although often breaks when we try to screw other parts to it. Triangle infill provides bigger strength and absorbs high lateral loads in bigger and more slender prints. Hexagonal infills seem to be the best both in durability and amount of material used for printing, they’re also good when you want to screw some parts together.
Set the Right Layer Height and Path Width
Layer height has a huge impact on the quality of 3D prints. Standard printing heights are between 0.1 to 0.3 mm but with a proper nozzle and a right filament, this range can be increased to from 0.05 to 0.35 mm.
Layer height shouldn’t be more than the nozzle diameter and less than half the path width. The lower the layer is, the more precise and detailed 3D print you get, and with less visible layers.
Path width, on the other hand, depends on the nozzle size. The most common nozzles are 0.3 and 0.4 mm. Minimum width can equal nozzles diameter but it can also be increased by 0.1 to 0.2 mm. Usually, path width should equal two times of layer height. We believe that a path widths from 0.3 up to 0.6 mm can be considered as a safe range to use and experiment with.
In theory, thinner paths can result in more precise prints but in reality, it applies only to smaller models and ones with a very high level of details. In fact, sometimes it’s better to set a wider path (we usually set 0.5 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle), so they’re better connected while the printing time is much shorter. Objects printed with wider paths tend to be more durable and don’t crack (this is recommended for ABD prints in particular).
Lower the Printing Speed
Is it easier to park your car when you’re driving fast towards the spot or slow down and do it precisely? The same rule applies to desktop 3D printers with their extruders and heated platforms which are mostly run by stepper motors.
Lowering motors speed below their custom setting can significantly increase the quality in FDM 3D printing. The extruder will have more time to do its work, especially on the corners and edges. The filament will also stick together better and have more time to cool down which should prevent it from spilling.
This piece of advice is especially important when you’re using PLA filaments. Quality in printing with other materials can also be increased this way but setting the right temperature would have a much greater impact on them.
Adjust the Retraction
Retraction is an important factor when you’re using both one and two-material extruders. All sound recorder vista 1.3. It’s responsible for retracting the filament when it’s not being used, although it constantly changes the pressure in the nozzle.
Setting a faster retraction can prevent the filament from blobbing on the object as well as unintentional mixing. The filament doesn’t hang from the nozzle too, so when the extruder moves over the object, it doesn’t leave thin “hairs” of plastic on the object.
The last thing, the retraction can influence are the stitches, where one layer ends and another starts. Better retraction can make them less visible. You should also make sure that your 3D printing software doesn’t place all the stitches one above another.
Don’t Be Afraid of Post-Processing
Photoshop Path Too Complex 3d
Remember that you can always use various post-processing and painting techniques to increase the final quality of your 3D prints. ABS filaments are best suited for that. 3D prints made with these materials can be washed, sandpapered and grinded. Hot air can be used to close small cracks from their surface and remove discoloration while acetone will make them shine.
All of the above post-processing techniques also apply to various ABS-based exotic filaments like Woodfill, which for example is easy to smooth with sandpaper. Bronzefill and Copperfill, on the other hand, are perfect for patination which makes them look like actual bronze or copper objects.
There are significantly fewer options for post-processing PLA filaments. Hot air is the only one we recommend for removing “hairs” and slight discoloration.
Both types of filaments can also be painted, although our experience shows that ABS prints better absorb various types of paints and colors while PLA often requires applying a thick layer of primer first.
You Too Can Achieve High Quality in FDM 3D Printing
There’s a lot of good practices and tricks one can use to increase the quality of FDM 3D printing, no matter which machine is being used for digital fabrication. Even if you don’t own a 3D printer and outsource this type of services, it’s always good to make sure that the company or a person found on 3D Hubs follows them too.
Let us know what you think about the above tips and feel free to comment with any other pieces of advice for ensuring an outstanding quality in FDM 3D printing.
Expand Your Manufacturing Knowledge
ZMorph Materials Library is a comprehensive guide to all materials compatible with ZMorph VX Multitool 3D Printer. This resource will give you an extensive outlook on a wide range of additive and subtractive fabrication materials supported by the machine.
Path Is Too Complex Photoshop 3d Cs6
Discover endless manufacturing possibilities with materials divided into three categories: 3D printing, CNC milling, and laser cutting and engraving.